The Blue Bell Inn embodies ever ything that’s good about Amer ican restaurants. And, it’s forward-thinking enought to stay at the top of it’s game for a long t ime to come.

The Capital Grille comes close, The Palm isn’t too far off, and Morton’s just misses the mark. What they all have in common, aside from their breathtakingly expensive menus, extensive but not terribly exciting wine lists, and well-heeled crowds, is their desire to a chieve that elusive charm that the best of the old-fashioned American restaurants seem to conjure so effortlessly out of their dimly-lit air.

So why, I asked myself, would anyone spend their money and time at those chains when the real deal is right here in Montgomery County?

The Blue Bell Inn has been around since 1743, but it wears its history lightly: The focus here is on the food (though the restaurant itself is beautiful) and the result, happily, is a dining exp erience that is second to none.

The Filet Mignon ($30.50) was wet-aged and perfectly seasoned. I ordered mine rare, and it arr ived at the table with just the right amount of charring on the outside and a gorgeously pink center. There was nothing overwroug ht about it, no gimmicky crust of wasabi or artisanal peppercorns from Thailand; no, it didn’t need that. When a steak is this good, a bit of salt and pepper and a deft hand at the stove are all that matter. In the case of this dish, anything else would have been unnecessary lily gilding, and somehow would have detracted from the gorgeous simplicity of it. Fabulously sweet onion rings and a side of the famous char-topped Blue Bell potatoes were nothing shor t of perfect.

Not everything here, however, is classically American in its preparation. People who haven’t been to the Blue Bell Inn in several years will be struck by some rather creative additions to the menu. Of course, trips of culinary fancy can be risky, and I’d be concerned if anyone but John Lamprecht, Sr., chef-owner of the Inn, was running the show in the kitchen. In his hands, though, everything seems to arrive at the table exactly as it should and, more often than not, even better than you had hoped.

The Lobster Tempura ($9) might be one of the best appetizers in the region: Coldwater lobster tails, fried in a classically light tempura batter, are served with a Japaneseinspired dipping sauce of homemade dashi soup stock, mirin, soy sauce, and sugar. Piled beside it all is a simple, elegant Asian slaw of green cabbage, red bell pepper, and scallions in a wonderful vinaigrette whose sesame, rice wine vinegar and fresh ginger liveliness cuts right through the lobster meat and ties it all together beautifully.

A dish like this might have been difficult to pair with an appropriate wine if it hadn’t been for the list John Lamprecht, Jr.—it’s a family thing at the Blue Bell Inn—has put together. Classics from the Old World and New share space with some wonderful littleknown gems. The result is that winos like me can get as adventurous as we’d like when it comes to our pairings. Of course, your best bet is just to tell John, Jr. what you’re in the mood for and leave the decision-making to him. You won’t be disappointed.

The Blue Bell Inn has expanded in recent years. The outdoor café is charming, and even if the weather doesn’t cooperate, the new bar, with its hardwood floors and windows all around, is a perfect place for a drink and a casual bite to eat. Of course, you’ll have to fight the crowds for one of those coveted tables, but you’ll be glad you did.

The Blue Bell Inn embodies everything that’s good about American restaurants. And it’s forward-thinking enough to stay at the top of its game for a long time to come. No matter where you live, this is a destination restaurant. We’re lucky to have it.

The Blue Bell Inn is located at 601 Skippack Pike in Blue Bell, PA. For more information, call (215) 646-2010 or visit the Blue Bell Inn Web site (www.bluebellinn.com).