Alison at Bluebell delights guests with flavors from afar.

Chef Alison Barshak has done it again. The Lafayette Hill native, who earned a national reputation as the debut chef at the Striped Bass, has struck gold with her newest venture, Alison at Bluebell. Known for her modern American cuisine with Southwestern, Mediterranean and Asian influences and an emphasis on seafood, Barshak is drawing Center City Philadelphians and New Yorkers to Bluebell, PA.

My guest and I arrived at Alison at Bluebell on a cold, bitter night, but were immediately warmed by the atmosphere and friendly faces. We were seated beside a large window that overlooked white lattice fences trimmed with festive lighting. Soft light emanated from  wall sconces, and the combination of blue curtains and butter-yellow paint created a crisp, classic feel.

We began our dining experience with the New England Seafood Chowder ($7), an herb-infused silky cream-based seafood broth filled with black bass, tuna, salmon and a collage of root vegetables. This was followed by a rustic traditional Greek salad ($8), a compilation of hearty Romaine lettuce with kalamata olives, fresh oregano and creamy feta cheese, accented with balsamic vinaigrette. The salad was then garnished with a baked phyllo cigar stuffed with feta and cream cheeses.

During our time at Alison at Bluebell, Barshak visited with guests, ensuring that everything ran smoothly in the 65-seat dining room, adding a personal touch to our experience, and giving us a chance to chat about the menu. She told us that the menu is created twice daily, catering to seasonal and available ingredients that arrive throughout the afternoon. She sent out a black bean cake with poached shrimp topped with an avocado salad, diced tomatoes and a citrus vinaigrette. The flavor of the shrimp was subtly enhanced by the vinaigrette, and the cold avocado salad was a nice contrast to the warm bean cake.

For our entrees, I decided on the Herb Encrusted Wild Striped Sea Bass with mashed potatoes and a balsamic sauce ($26). To the eye, this dish was a beautiful canvas of color, contrast and texture. The dish was wonderfully accented by a concentration of balsamic vinegar, balanced with flawlessly whipped potatoes.

My guest's Pepper Encrusted Tuna with Spinach and Shoestring Potatoes ($24) was an accomplishment of simplistic complexity. The tuna was spicy, yet delicate; the shallot sherry broth was savory, yet subtle. The sautéed baby spinach was pure silk, and the crunchy shoestring potatoes were a perfect contrast.

For dessert, offerings of Mango Upside Down Cake with vanilla ice cream, Cinnamon and Banana Bread Pudding with caramel sauce, Tahitian Vanilla Bean Crème Brulee accompanied by homemade sugar cookies and Chocolate Marshmallow Ice Cream Cake ($6.50 each) plagued our indecisive minds. We finally indulged in the crème brulee, which melted in our mouths, and  Bread Pudding -  the perfect comfort food for a cold evening.

From the moment we entered  Alison at Bluebell, we knew we were in for an exciting experience.  Alison Barshak is so attuned to detail that her artistic culinary skills seem to jump off the plate, from flavor to presentation. What more could you ask from such an accomplished chef?

Alison at Bluebell is located at 721 Skippack Pike in Bluebell, PA. BYOB, cash and checks accepted-no credit cards. Reservations are recommended. For more information, call (215) 641-2660 or visit www.alisonatbluebell.com.

Bethany Borghi is a freelance who resides in Doylestown.