The Simple Pleasures of a Solid Italian Restaurant

Sometimes, a good dose of the familiar is just what you need. Don’t get me wrong, I’m a staunch advocate of trying new cuisines, of experiencing unfamiliar flavors, of branching out from the received wisdom of restaurant dining in America and looking for something new.

But once in a while, what you really need is a solid Caesar salad, a decent bowl of pasta, and a bottle of your own choosing.

Which is exactly where Café Antonio hits its stride. And while its menu does offer up a couple of dishes that push the envelope, its center of gravity is most assuredly in the realm of the classics of Italian- American dining.

Caesar salad ($7.95) was a simple, straightforward bowl of crisp Romaine, homemade croutons, and a garlicky, tangy dressing. The only problem here was an overabundance of a good thing. There was so much dressing coating those leaves that its flavor, initially so appealing, grew overwhelming after a few bites.

Overdressing the greens was also an issue with the house salad that came with Ms. M.’s entrée. Here, too, the problem was the same. A wellconsidered mélange of greens and vegetables—lettuce, cucumber, tomato, onion—was nearly drowned in a housemade vinaigrette that, were it not used in such abundance, would have proven to be a real winner.

Bruschetta ($5.95), though the bread could have been grilled more—a bit of crunch would really have provided a nice context for the topping— benefited from the flavor, if not texture, of those thick slices. The bread here, after all, is baked on-premises, and as a result possesses the yeasty, somewhat heady aroma that only fresh loaves have.

The topping was a classic combination of diced tomato, onion, garlic, fresh basil, olive oil, oregano, salt, and pepper. But it stood out for its seasoning, which was taken right up to the line but never crossed over, rendering it surprisingly savory.

Fettuccine Alfredo ($12.95) also benefited from aggressive seasoning. Here, the seasoning served to highlight the soft lactic sweetness of the cream and the gentle earthy twang of the Romano cheese. And as opposed to the salads, the saucing here was very well-calibrated.

Sauce also played the starring role in veal parmesan ($19.95), a dish I typically avoid ordering because of its tendency toward mediocrity. (Melted cheese, after all, can be used to compensate for all manner of culinary sins.) But this one worked precisely because it did not pander down like that: The veal was sweetened by a balanced, silky tomato sauce and given heft by the generous blanket of mozzarella.

Only the desultory side bowl of penne with tomato sauce failed here. It looked (and tasted) more like an afterthought than anything else. Not that there was any room for it, though. That veal was tasty enough to warrant overeating on its own merits, thereby rendering the side of pasta completely unnecessary.

Desserts are not made in-house, though the cannoli ($5.95), subtly kissed with a bite of ricotta, was certainly a better take on the classic than many you’re likely to find in the area.

Truly, though, that dessert was a case of forcing the issue because of the requirements of this line of work. The majority of guests are likely to be rather more than full by the time the dessert option presents itself. Better to simply sit there enjoying the live music (a recent Friday dinner was enjoyed to a lilting, mostly-Beatles soundtrack as played by a somewhat Pat Metheny-sounding jazz guitarist) and sipping the remainder of whatever wine you’ve brought. Simple pleasures, after all, are often all you need.

Café Antonio is located at 107 E. Trenton Ave. in Morrisville, and can be reached by phone at (215) 428-3999.