A Visit to Dublin.

Ask a Dubliner what’s happening in Dublin these days, and he’s liable to quote this line from a Yeats’ poem: “All changed, changed utterly.”  And it’s true, as this historic city on the Irish Sea morphs into one of the fastest growing tourist destinations in the U.K.

Fueled by a booming economy and the influx of technology business from all over the EU and America, Dublin is a city on the move.  About half of the Irish Republic’s 3.6 million residents live in Greater Dublin, with many of those residents under the age of 30.  Dublin is a young city with an energetic nightlife and arts scene to match.  The city’s large student population adds a contemporary luster to Dublin’s centuries-old patina.

Bisected neatly by the River Liffey into the northside and southside, most of Dublin’s important historic, cultural and literary sights are within an hour’s walk of the city center.  Here are a few of the must-sees for any first-timer to Dublin.

Shop Grafton Street:  This chic pedestrian-only shopping street is the busiest commercial avenue in town. Everything from shamrock-sporting souvenir shops to Celtic music emporiums and tiny boutiques are on display. And the people watching is excellent.

Walk Through St. Stephen’s Green: Meander through this once-private 27-acre park, originally property of Sir Arthur Guinness, for a chance to get close to nature and mingle with the locals who are always on hand. Located just outside of Grafton Street, this is an ideal spot to rest up after shopping and contemplate statues of James Joyce and W.B. Yeats.

See the Book of Kells: Located in the Old Library of Trinity College, the Book of Kells is a copy of the gospels created by Irish monks more than a millennium ago.  Although only one two-page spread is illuminated at one time (it’s all part of managing the wear and tear on this ancient tome), the accompanying exhibits are equally illuminating. The library itself is gorgeous, and home to a floor-to-ceiling collection of manuscripts, as well as the oldest harp in Ireland, dating back to the 15th century.  www.tcd.ie

Cross the Ha’Penny Bridge: This stunning metal footbridge provides one of the most popular views of Dublin, leading into the trendy Temple Bar neighborhood.  Dating back to 1816, the bridge owes its name to the toll demanded until 1919 to cross it.

Have Some Craic in Temple Bar: Temple Bar, between the River Liffey and Dame Street, was Dublin’s port district in the 18th century. Today, its narrow cobbled streets are home to trendy pubs, nightclubs, restaurants, with live music and street performers typical after dark.  Stop in for a pint at Foggy Dew (1 Fownes Street), The Auld Dubliner (17 Anglesea St.) The Temple Bar, (48 Temple Bar) one of the busiest pubs in the city. You’re guaranteed some craic—pronounced crack and Irish for big fun—not matter where you go.

A Tour, A Wee Dram and a Pint The only thing the Irish love more than football is Guinness, and no trip to Dublin is complete without hefting back a few pints of Ireland’s  national brew. Take a self-guided tour through the Guinness Storehouse to find out how Sir Arthur built his empire from a tiny pub to serving 10 million glasses per day today.  The Gravity Bar on the building’s top floor offers a terrific view of the city along with a free pint. www.guinnessstorehouse.com. For something a mite stronger, check out the Old Jameson Distillery, with its film on the history of Irish whiskey and distilleries.

Have a full Irish breakfast, which includes fried or scrambled eggs, rashers (bacon that looks more like ham), black or white pudding (the black has blood in it, but just think about scrapple when you eat it and you’ll be fine), bangers (sausages), grilled mushrooms and tomatoes and brown bread. That ought to hold you. When you’re hungry again, you’ll find a wide variety of restaurants, from “new” Irish to international cuisine, throughout the city.  For a fancy meal, try Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, (21 Merrion St. Upper, 676-4193) showcasing one of the best chefs in Dublin in the smart Merrion Hotel, an elegant ode to fine dining that will easily set you back more than 100 euros.

Where to Stay: Charming hotels are everywhere in Dublin, from romantic little B&Bs to grander digs. One of the best located is the Fitzwilliam Hotel, just a few minutes from Grafton Street. With a contemporary design by Sir Terrence Conran, a two Michelin star restaurant, Citron, this comfortable hotel runs about $220 euros per night, including breakfast. www.fitzwilliamhotel.com

For more info about Dublin visit www.tourismireland.com.

Beth D’Addono lives in Belmont Hills, PA.