An Island Beyond Expectations

Bali is a place that isn’t so much of this world, as truly out of it.

Set squarely at the crossroads between good karma, aesthetic beauty and pampering luxury, Bali is a destination unlike any other.  Even describing the Indonesian island is a challenge: Paradise meets reverence? Spice collides with the sweetness of genuine hospitality? Natural beauty enhanced by body-loving TLC?  Yes, it is all of these things, and so much more. 

At the center of the Indonesia archipelago on the Indian Ocean, Bali is a far-flung destination for Americans.  But even though it takes a long time to get there, the rejuvenation and stimulation that awaits at journey's end makes the trip seem inconsequential. Bali is a place that you never really leave without scheming to return.

Although long discovered by tourists, many of them Aussie surfer dudes and beach goers drawn to the party haven/tourist trap of Kuta, Bali’s living culture remains fiercely intact.  Restorative beach time is best captured south of Kuta on pristine Jimbaron Bay on the Bukit Peninsula. Famous for its four star resorts, Jimbaron Bay is also the place for casual beachfront eateries, or warungs, where you select your seafood fresh from iced displays and doom live lobsters to the grill.  Indonesian cuisine, bold with garlic, lime, chili and coconut, is at its best here.

After soaking up the sun for a few days, head an hour north to the cultural and artistic capital of Ubud at the island’s center, where extreme beauty and timeless ritual coexist. Inhabited by generations of Hindu refugees who left the mainland after the Muslim conquest of the 15th century, Bali’s Hinduism unselfconsciously permeates every aspect of daily life.  The smell of incense, the sight of offerings of rice and fruit wrapped in banana leaf and the outline of temples and shrines define every landscape.

A visit to one of the island’s primary temples is a must.  Take a day trip to Pura Besakih, high on the slopes of Mt. Agung. The best time to visit is during one of the many festivals, when hordes of locals make a pilgrimage to the Mother Temple laden with offerings for the gods. Literally thousands of Balinese ascend the volcano in traditional dress to pray. All visitors need to wear sarongs as a sign of respect for the holy place.

Although the island’s beauty is incredible, with its riot of flowers, lush vegetation, shimmering waterfalls and brilliant rice fields, Bali’s greatest treasure is its people.  Industrious, resourceful, proud and hospitable, the Balinese reflect a joie de vivre that is easily the country’s best natural resource. Whether you’re staying in a modest home stay, the local version of B&B for $20 a night, or a posh resort for $400, you’ll be attended to and cared for like a member of the family. And in a place where families never leave home – multi-generational communal living is the norm – and children are revered, being treated like family is the highest honor.

In Ubud, an ideal home base, you can fill your days with walks, museum visits, performances, terrific restaurant and endless shopping. Blessed with gentle mountain breezes and a landscape ideal for trekking, Ubud is an idiosyncratic place full of surprises. Who would expect a thatched organic restaurant in the middle of a rice field within 10 minutes of downtown? Bodag Meliah is the vision of Nila Wati, a determined woman who makes everything fresh, from tofu and yogurt to sambal and feta cheese. She’s actually paying farmers more than market value to grow rice organically.

Then there’s Kafe (www.balispirit.com ) on the main drag, a vegetarian-friendly magnet for a colorful array of expats, well heeled tourists and hippie backpackers that is straight out of downtown Berkeley – plenty of crunch, yoga-gear and New Age patter sets the tone. Casa Luna (www.casalunabali.com) is a good spot for Indonesian cuisine – owner Janet de Neefe, who owns the comfy and well-priced Honeymoon Guesthouse, also offers cooking courses.

Traditional Balinese music and dance is ever present in Ubud – there is literally something going on every night. Tourist-friendly temple dances include kecak, legong and barong performances and gamelan orchestras, featuring Balinese gongs and percussion instruments, regularly serenade.

A shopper’s paradise, Ubud is the repository of the crafts, textiles, jewelry, wood and metal work of scads of artists in outlying villages. A forum for world-class painters, wood and stone carvers and mask-makers, Ubud’s boutiques are filled with unique handicrafts, textiles and jewelry of world-class design rendered in indigenous materials.

For lovers of all things spa, Ubud offers sheer nirvana.  Nur Salon is one of the most traditional spots, a typical flower-filled Balinese compound that offers pampering treatments including the sensuous flower bath, cream bath or Balinese massage. Prices are low by American standards, so you’ll be tempted to have a treatment every day. And you can afford to.

Whether you’re on a budget or indulging in luxury without thought to cost, Bali is a magical place that will restore your mind, body and spirit, a destination of a lifetime that will beckon again and again.

Where to Stay

Four Seasons Jimbaron Bay (www.fourseasons.com ) - With its traditional Balinese design, beachfront real estate, incredible service and well-appointed villas, this resort is the definition of exotic romance. From $630 per night, double occupancy.

Uma Ubud  (www.uma.como.bz ) On the fringe of downtown overlooking the rice fields, Uma Ubud boast terraced rooms,  local organic cuisine, an extensive wellbeing program and a range of Asian based therapies. From $220, including breakfast, double occupancy.

Como Shambhala Estate at Begawan Giri (http://shambhala.como.bz ) A sister property to Uma Ubud, this destination retreat is outside of town built into the jungle above the Ayung River. Known for its spa, yoga and Pilates classes, guided hikes and outdoor activities, Shambhala is intimate, with just 40 rooms and suites. From $325 including breakfast, double occupancy.