 The moose may be Maine’s state animal, but a more appropriate symbol of the coastal town of Freeport would be the shopping bag.
Unlike shopping at a typical outlet mall, bargain hunting in Freeport is not a cookie cutter experience. Located about 15 miles north of Portland, this town has been a shopper’s destination since Leon Leonwood Bean opened the original L.L. Bean store in 1912. Despite its 170 plus shops and businesses, Freeport is the antithesis of a strip mall. The town has maintained its charming, New England character by strictly enforced zoning regulations to preseve the simple architecture along Main Street. Even the downtown McDonalds had to forgo its golden arches, residing instead in an unassuming clapboard farmhouse. Store sales clerks are friendly and helpful, and while Freeport has its share of overpriced tchotchkes, there are definitely bargains to be had.
Beyond a day (or two) of serious shopping, Freeport offers rugged, natural beauty and a chance to recreate in the great outdoors. And if you forget your hiking boots, not to worry: There’s a little store on Main Street, called L.L. Bean that can fix you right up.
Out and About
Freeport is an ideal place for tromping around in the woods, loads of fun for kids of all ages. And everything is close to town – in 20 minutes you can be just about anywhere. Take a picnic to Wolfe’s Neck Woods State Park (426 Wolfe's Neck Road, (207) 865-4465 http://www.maine.gov), 200 acres of salt marshes and hemlocks, with five miles of hiking trails, some along the rocky shores of Casco Bay and the Harraseeket River. On the way to or from, stop by Wolfe’s Neck Farm (184 Burnett Road, (207)865-4469 www.wolfesneckfarm.org), which is always open for visitors. There’s an organic vegetable garden, farm animals – including herds of naturally raised cattle – and special programs for kids, depending on the season. Hiking and camping is offered on the farm at Recompense Campground facing Casco Bay.
Through the end of October, you can take a boat ride on Atlantic Seal Cruises (25 Main St., South Freeport, (207)865-6112), which might include a visit to the museum house of Admiral Perry, a view of wildlife including seals and ospreys, and a lobstering demo from the gregarious Captain Tom Ring. Another area calling card is the Desert of Maine (95 Desert Road, (207)865-6962 www.desertofmaine.com), a desert eco-system, caused by 19th century soil erosion, revealing a landscape of giant sand dunes. Take a narrated coach tour or a self-guided walk through the 40 acres of sand that was once Tuttle Farm. Kids will love the gem hunt (stones have been scattered in a section of the desert for treasure hunters to uncover).
Fuel Up
For breakfast, stop by Isabella’s (2 School St. (207)865-6635), a funky little downstairs café that offers blueberry pancakes, juicy with small, genuinely sweet Maine blueberries and topped with real maple syrup. Local pride is always on the menu at the Broad Arrow Tavern (62 Main Street, (207)865-1684, www.harraseeketinn.com), the Harraseeket Inn’s family-friendly pub. The menu lists dozens of Maine-based farms and purveyors, including nearby Wolfe’s Neck Farm, Potts Harbor Lobster Co. for crustaceans and Sparky’s for local organic honey. The expansive $16 lunch buffet is the way to go mid-day. If you’re lucky, there will be Boston cream pie on the dessert table. The historic Jameson Tavern (115 Main St., (207)865-4196, www.jamesontavern.com ) the spot where 19-century separatists wrangled over the details of autonomy from Massachusetts, offers terrific prime rib. For a more upscale, contemporary vibe, head to Azure Café (123 Main St., (207)865-1237 www.azurecafe.com), a service-oriented Italian grill that specializes in fragrant pasta dishes, grilled seafood and a spicy Sicilian-style cioppino brimming with local fish and lobster.
After Dark
Maine-ahs aren’t into disco, generally speaking. But there are plenty of pubs where you can rub elbows with the locals, some offering live music on weekends. Check out Buck’s Naked BBQ (132 US Route 1, (207) 865-0600), a roadhouse scene that combines gorgeously smoked swine with a varying menu of entertainment, from film screenings on Tuesday and Wednesdays to local open mic on Thursdays and bands playing everything from rock to blues most weekends.
A free open-air summer concert series, sponsored by L.L. Bean, takes place Saturdays and some Sundays through Labor Day. National names like Mary Chapin Carpenter, Arlo Guthrie and the Indigo Girls perform. Live music, from folk to blues, is featured at Gritty McDuff’s (Lower Main St., (207)865.4321 www.grittys.com) a pleasingly raucous brewpub. For a completely different take on nightlife, visit Blueberry Pond Observatory (355 Libby Rd. Pownal, (207)688-4410 www.blueberryobservatory.com), where telescopes offer brilliant views of the night skies just five miles from town. This is for serious galactic adventurers only – two hour sky “tours” cost $160 for two adults, $200 for four adults, with children 12 and younger free of charge.
 Shop, and Shop Some More
Besides the outfitting behemoth L.L. Bean, where off-season merchandise can be a steal, Freeport offers a range of brand names like Jones New York, J. Crew, Polo Ralph Lauren and Burberry. A few of the stores, including Cole Haan, offer regular retail prices, with the discounted goods located downstairs. If you’re not sure, ask. Footwear comes in a bonanza of styles, from strappy heels at Nine West to stolid walkers at Rockport and stylish comfort at Clark. As is usually the case, some of the best shops are not the national chains. Check Edgecomb Potters (8 School St., (207)865-1705 www.edgecombpotters.com) for stunning Maine-fired decorative and functional pottery and artsy jewelry. At the Co-op Contemporary Clothing Cooperative (140 N. Main St. (207)865-2007) a mix of well-known labels are discounted, with many items priced at $19.95. For all things moose, the Mangy Moose (112 Main St. 207-865-6414) sells Maine-centric merchandise, from moose-printed boxers to deer antler chandeliers.
For more information, log on to http://freeportusa.com and www.visitmaine.com.
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